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MODESTO, Calif. — Publishers are updating titles and issuing new releases in an effort to satisfy home canners and food preservers.
This is great news for the legion of folks concerned about the quality of processed food or for home canners who simply want to reconnect with this most satisfying craft.
Interests have shifted from “preserve because we have to” to “preserve because we like to,” according to Steve Dowdney in “Putting Up: A Year-Round Guide to Canning in the Southern Tradition” (Gibbs Smith, Publisher, $19.99).
“The art of ‘putting up,' as it is still called in the South, doesn't take a chef. It doesn't take a cook, it doesn't take any schooling, and there are as many guys as there are gals knocking out the jars,” he writes.
“Putting Up” details home-canning basics and has a resource directory, glossary and tips. Recipes are divided by month and include green tomato chow-chow, garlic pepper jelly, green tomato chutney and sweet spreads. Dowdney's book was released last month.
Coming this month is “175 Best Jams, Jellies, Marmalades & Other Soft Spreads” (Robert Rose, $21.95), by Linda J. Amendt.
Amendt lists the equipment needed to get started, tells how to choose ingredients and how to trouble-shoot. But it's the eclectic recipes that are the real stars, such as caramel apple jam, cabernet sauvignon wine jelly, candy apple jelly (featuring Red Hot candies), pineapple rum jam and drunken spreads (Champagne jelly, margarita jelly and mimosa jelly).
Storey Publishing is riding this “eat local” movement with a half-dozen books. All have been updated to meet stricter USDA guidelines that call for the cooked food to be packed into sterilized hot jars and then “processed” — or submerged in boiling water — for a certain amount of time.
“The Big Book of Preserving the Harvest,” by Carol W. Costenbader, begins with how to choose ingredients and handle produce. Illustrated step-by-step directions on canning, drying, pickling and freezing, and ample illustrations on techniques make the methods foolproof.
Originally released in 1997, Costenbader's book is $18.95.
“The Busy Person's Guide to Preserving Food” ($14.95), by Janet Chadwick, answers that age-old question of what to do with all those tomatoes ripening at hyperspeed in the garden.
Cold storage is the fastest method, followed by freezing tomatoes whole, peeled or unpeeled or as a strained puree or juice; canning as tomato puree or raw packed whole; drying as slices.
Recipes similar to the ones grandmother made and those grandmother never heard of fill “Pickles & Relishes: From Apples to Zucchini, 150 Recipes for Preserving the Harvest” ($9.95).
Andrea Chesman's collection of recipes from pickle makers from around the country was introduced in 1983.
“Making & Using Dried Foods,” by Phyllis Hobson, was originally published in 1983 as “Garden Way Publishing's Guide to Food Drying.”
This all-in-one reference and cookbook covers the process of drying more than 100 fruits, vegetables, herbs, meats and dairy products. Methods include the sun, the oven and a home-built dehydrator.
Best of all, the more than 200 recipes for soups, snacks, entrees, etc., put the stockpile to good use. It's $14.95.
This recipe is from “Putting Up: A Year-Round Guide to Canning in the Southern Tradition,” by Steve Dowdney.
2 pounds peaches, peeled, pitted and pureed
3 cups sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Place pureed peaches in a pot. Add sugar and lemon juice. Over medium heat, stirring often, bring to a boil.
Pour thin layers of peach puree onto large, nonstick, shallow pans. Tilt pans to move puree around until thin, but not too thin, and evenly dispersed.
Place sheets in lowest-temperature oven. When no longer wet to touch but not crisp-dry (like the texture of leather), remove from oven. Allow to cool. Peel from pan.
On a cutting board, cut into 2 1/2 -by-3-inch rectangles. Roll into short side. If removed before too dry, the rolls will stay together.
Roll the peach leather rolls in sugar and store in an airtight jar, zip-close bag or wrap in plastic wrap.
Makes: About seven 8-ounce jars
This recipe is from “175 Best Jams, Jellies, Marmalades & Other Soft Spreads,” by Linda J. Amendt.
3 cups crushed, pitted, peeled peaches
2/3 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
1/2 cup tequila
1/4 cup triple sec
6 cups granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon unsalted butter (optional)
1 pouch (3 ounces) liquid pectin
Prepare canning jars and lids and bring water in water-bath canner to a boil.
In an 8-quart stainless-steel stockpot, combine peaches, lime juice, tequila and triple sec. Gradually stir in sugar and butter, if using. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly until sugar is completely dissolved.
Increase heat to medium-high and bring to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly. Stir in pectin.
Return to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly, and boil for one minute.
Remove pot from heat and skim off any foam. Let jam cool in the pot for five minutes, stirring occasionally.
Ladle hot jam into hot jars, leaving 1/4 -inch headspace. Remove any air bubbles.
Wipe jar rims and threads with a clean, damp paper towel. Center hot lids on jars and screw on bands until fingertip-tight.
Place jars in canner, making sure they are covered by at least 1 inch of water. Cover and bring to a gentle boil. Process 4-ounce jars and 8-ounce jars for 10 minutes; process 1-pint jars for 15 minutes.
Remove jars from canner and place on a wire rack or cloth towel. Let cool for 24 hours, then check seals. Wash and dry jars and store in a cool, dry, dark location.
Note: Triple sec is a colorless, sweet, orange-flavored liqueur.
Note: For 3 cups crushed peaches, you'll need about 3 pounds or nine medium peaches.
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